- Published Date: 10 February 2008
- Source: Scotland On Sunday
Bali High
By Ian Fletcher
Five years on from the devastating terrorist bomb that killed 202 people in Kuta, there is, paradoxically, a genuine sense of peace about Bali.
The wonderful beaches, beautiful blue skies and warm sunny climate are a great help, of course, but ultimately it comes from the people, in whom there seems to be a complete absence of aggression. Only along the main drag of Kuta do you get anything like the hustle and bustle that is so prevalent throughout many of Asia's tourist destinations, and even then it is totally lacking in menace.
At first it is almost disconcerting, but after a day or two, Bali's amiable, live-free-and-relax mentality soon seeps into the soul of the most hardened cynic – the swish of waves or the gentle thumping of drums and xylophones around the numerous Hindu temples getting you into the mood.
This is perhaps why Bali has been popular for so long. Backpackers on their eastern circuit have been visiting for decades – the scenery, ease of living and prices that barely dented the skinniest of western wallets making for an intoxicating mix. But the arrival of the higher-priced hotel chains has ensured that Bali now attracts a diverse mix of visitors. And with up to 85% of the island's income coming from tourism, it needs to, which is why the bombing of the Sari Club in 2002 and the suicide attacks in 2005 in Jimbaran and Kuta, which killed 20 people, were so devastating.
Tourism subsequently collapsed, but recently visitors have been returning in increasing numbers. An acknowledgment that such attacks can happen anywhere and a massive increase in Australian security in the area have helped to persuade people to revisit this sliver of paradise.
There are always surfers, who consider Bali a haven for its world-famous breaks, such as at Uluwatu and Padang Padang. Only the competent should attempt these, as I discovered after I fell off and went through the 'washing machine' experience – which is a bit like being in a spin cycle, underwater – and swallowing rather too much of the ocean.
There are plenty of smaller waves for those determined to join the 'dude' fraternity, but if you're looking for tranquillity, head inland to the district of Ubud. This serene village has retained a distinctly bohemian feel, attracting alternative types, as well as those who are passionate about art, crafts, dance and literature. From here, continue north to Tampak Siring, a massive temple carved out of the jungle. The holy waters attract observant Hindus and many jump in to the pools and wash in the continuous flow emanating from a series of ornately decorated outlets. It is part of a ceremonial tradition, but one that visitors are welcome to watch. The air is heavy with incense, music and prayer, as worshippers chant in unison and the high priest leads the proceedings.
Further north still lies Mount Batur, an active volcano that can be climbed in two hours or, alternatively, viewed at your leisure from a nearby peak over a pleasant lunch.
These attractions can be taken in over the course of a day with a local driver, but the real wonder of Bali is what goes on around you at every moment: temple guardians outside homes or premises; two gargoyle statues at an entrance and exit representing good and evil; rice paddies; and the chaos of traffic as hundreds of scooters and mopeds converge at huge junctions and somehow filter through the cars and buses with little or no road rage in evidence.
The situation positively demands frustration from someone used to driving in the UK, but the Balinese carry on oblivious, avoiding confrontation or accident, and there is usually at least one sighting a day of a scooter carrying five people. I spotted one with a man driving, a small boy clinging around his front perched above the handlebars and facing backwards, and a woman seated behind the driver, with another child wrapped around her back as she breast-fed her baby.
Ceremonies abound throughout the island, with the Balinese making offerings in temples sometimes more than five times in a day. They will celebrate a tooth as earnestly as others celebrate a birthday. It is their belief that there is a continuing battle between good and evil, a belief manifested in the numerous barong dances.
In these dances, fantastical creatures wage this war between good and evil, which can never be won. I witnessed one with a monkey, a tiger and a wizard devil with its acolytes. How apt, I thought, for such an island to have a traditional dance demonstrating such a futile conflict?
Tourists are free to go along and enjoy these ceremonies, but they must remember these are an important part of local life. Many families are poor because t
hey spend so much on offerings, yet such is the strength of their belief that it is accepted as a fact of life. It is perhaps the reason Balinese people go around with such huge smiles on their faces.
Whatever it is, visitors to this captivating island are the lucky beneficiaries of such good-naturedness and, while it has had its problems with security, Bali remains too alluring to be ignored.
FACT FILE: BALI
Bali caters for all types of traveller, from the budget backpacker to those who must have their luxury hotels or spectacular cliff-top villas. A top-end hotel is around £65 per person per night. Backpacking costs a matter of a few pounds per evening.
Getting there
There are connecting flights from Edinburgh via Heathrow and Singapore with a variety of airlines, including Cathay Pacific and Malaysia Airlines, start at around £610.